Ok. . . so I have read articles and tutorials for photographing  jewelry and  I ignored the recommendation for using a light box for better jewelry pictures.  First, I thought homemade light boxes wouldn’t really work and second, professional light box and or light tent setups were too expensive.    I found a couple of really nice professional light box setups available on the market, but you are going to spend between $100.00 and $300.00 to purchase one of these depending on whether you choose a soft setup or the full self-contained box. 

So. . .why am I thinking I need a light box now after not using one before?   The economy is down and business is slow.  From a marketing point of view, I need to improve showing my jewelry (my photos)  to stay competetive in the market place.  Marketing on line with a virtual store I have to “show” my jewelry designs in photographs clearly, accurately and with a pleasing presentation to encourage customers to buy my jewelry.  Better photographs of my jewelry just might be the marketing edge  I am looking for.

Extra photo equipment is not in the budget,  so I decided to make my own light box.   There are numerous articles and tutorials on the web with instructions for making a light box out of a white plastic trash can, using a large plastic bowl, or using white posterboard.  All of these variations involve cutting openings in the containers  to take the pictures through and shining lights from the sides or top of the containers to diffuse the light.  I knew that I wanted my light box to be light weight and rather compact because of space limitations in my studio.  I also knew that I needed a specific shape and size for my light box because I almost always use various size necklace and jewelry stands to display my jewelry designs.  So here is my variation and instructions for making your own light box that actually works.

I had been using a white 3 section foamboard (science project display board) as one of my backdrops and decided I could use it to construct my light box.   The display board basically is 24″ wide across the center section and 12″ wide on both side sections. 

My tallest necklace display stand is 14″ so I decided to make my light box 16″ tall overall.    After measuring 16″ from the bottom of the board and drawing a line across at that point, I used a craft knife (box cutter) to cut through the foamboard giving me a 16″ tall piece of the display board.  I had to go over the line with the knife a couple of times to cut all the way through the foamboard. 

 To determine the inside and outside of the light box, I checked to see how the front sides folded to the back.  The cut edges of the folds are on the outside of the light box and the smooth (uncut) folded side is inside of the light box.   To make my light box have 4 equal sides, I measured 12″ from where the side section folded to the front of the display board and drew another line on the outside of the center section to divide the 24″ section into 2 sections 12″ each.   Using the craft knife I cut through the line I had drawn down the middle of the center section being careful not to cut all the way through the foamboard this time.  I basically just cut the outside board layer and scored the foam so the center section now folded into 2 equal pieces so there are 4 equal sides to the box now.

On 1 of the sides I measured and drew a box in the center and cut this section out with the craft knife to make a viewing /photographing opening in the light box.  I made my opening larger because I use tall display stands for my photographs.  I would suggest a 4 inch x 4 inch opening to start with. 

I then took wide packaging tape and taped all the raw cut edges on the top and bottom of the  light box and around the viewing opening.  I folded the light box and added packaging tape to the edge where the sides meet being carefull to not pull the edges too tight so the box still stands easily with 4 equal sides.  What I have now  is an open ended rectangular box with a viewing opening on 1 side.

To finish my light box and use it for photographing  jewelry, I use a white cloth or white paper  as the bottom of my light box to sit my jewelry display on and sit the light box over the jewelry display with the viewing opening in the front.  I put a white cloth or large piece of  paper over the open top of the light box (to diffuse the light) and place a daylight lamp so the light shines down through the covering onto the jewelry stand. 

I didn’t say my light box was pretty.  This first one is very basic but functional for my use. 

I used my digital camera to take the pictures through the viewing opening.  I had to change and experiment with some of the camera settings for white balance and light before I got some really good jewelry pictures.  I also took some pictures without the top covering  just letting the daylight lamp shine directly on the jewelry display.  You can experiment with this to see how your pictures turn out.

An expert jewelry photographer I’m not, but my pictures look better.  I’ve cut out most of the shadows and reflection so my jewelry can look natural and my clients can see what a lovely jewelry design it is.  Another plus is I didn’t break the budget with a new piece of equipment.

Before the light box with shadows and dark.

After the light box photo looks clean and clear.

’till next time!

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KC Bead Designs – Beaded Jewelry by Cheryl Skeens, located in the greater Kansas City, Missouri area, is owned and operated by Cheryl Skeens. In business since 2003 as a jewelry artist / designer of handcrafted beaded jewelry such as beaded earrings, bracelets, necklaces, eyeglass chains, beaded lanyards, zipper pulls, cell phone charms, mother’s bracelets, bridal and prom jewelry and more. Reflections. . .Beaded Jewelry. . .by Cheryl Skeens opened in July 2008 along with her new blog-site and is her second online store.